Southern Hubei Reminiscence: Flavor of the 28th Lunar Month

March 23, 2026

Southern Hubei Reminiscence: Flavor of the 28th Lunar Month

Amidst a downpour, savoring the traditional New Year provisions of childhood memory

The 28th day of the twelfth lunar month. A sudden downpour plunged this small mountain village in Southern Hubei into deep winter. My parents were still busy, preparing the New Year provisions in the traditional way. In that era of scarcity, we children yearned for this moment every year.

Rainwater dripped in streams along the roof tiles; glistening droplets hung from the bare branches of the plum trees; and through the deep gray sky, fine strands of rain were faintly visible.

In the flower bed by the door, deep red camellias, still budding, were heavy with raindrops; in the red-mud courtyard behind the house, orchids were quietly blooming, accompanied by the fresh scent of earth.

In the kitchen, my parents were busy making various fried foods. Dry bamboo splints burned fiercely in the stove, morphing into various shapes. We gathered around the fire for warmth, anticipating the delicacies about to emerge from the wok.

First came the fried tofu. The tofu my mother had prepared two days earlier, once deep-fried, could be sliced for cold salad, used in other dishes, and was especially flavorful when added to a hot pot.

Next was the local specialty, fried "Mǐpào" meatballs ("Mǐpào" is a Hubei dialect term specifically referring to snacks made from sticky rice or regular rice puffed under high heat and pressure). These were mainly made by mixing puffed rice, cured meat, starch, ginger, green onion, and garlic. The mixture was then hand-rolled into balls and deep-fried. They tasted best right out of the wok but were usually steamed for later consumption.

Then there was a snack we often ate as children—fried sweet potato chips. Sweet potatoes, harvested in the autumn, were peeled, cooked, and mashed. A small amount of orange peel, toasted sesame seeds, and minced ginger were added and thoroughly mixed. The paste was then thinly spread into small circles using a knife on a specialized mold, removed, sun-dried, cut into diamond shapes, and stored in bags for slow enjoyment throughout the winter. They could be eaten directly, roasted over charcoal, pan-fried with sand, or deep-fried, as was being done now.

Finally, some cold-dressed dishes were prepared: the essential spicy lotus roots, spicy chicken feet, and spicy edamame, found in almost every household.