First Encounter with Shanwei: The Lively Atmosphere of Ermalu Night Market

March 12, 2026

First Encounter with Shanwei: The Lively Atmosphere of Ermalu Night Market

My first trip to Shanwei, Guangdong, led me straight to the Ermalu Food Street, a highly representative local night market, as night had already fallen. This street is famous for its affordable and authentic snacks, making it a popular spot for experiencing Chaoshan-style street food at night.

Right at the entrance of the food street, a heartwarming scene caught my eye: a father lifting his child high up, while the mother tidied the child's clothes, and another child enjoyed a snack nearby.

A long queue had already formed in front of the "Ermalu Old-Brand Thin Pancake" stall. The thin pancake (bobing) is a traditional Shanwei snack, originally a festive food for ancestor worship after the Qingming Festival, but now a daily street delicacy. It comes in both savory and sweet flavors with rich fillings.

As night fully descended, the number of visitors on the food street gradually increased. A local resident walking their dog happened to bump into an acquaintance and stopped in the middle of the street for a lively chat, brimming with local flavor.

Feeling hungry, we ordered a snack at a dumpling shop named "Yuan Ji." Among the offerings, the "Dong Jie Ge" (Winter Festival Pigeon) piqued my interest. I learned that it originated as an offering for ancestor worship and praying to gods during the local Winter Solstice (known as "Dong Jie," with a saying that "Winter Solstice is bigger than the New Year"). It has now evolved into an everyday snack. It got its name because its shape resembles a clam, and the Shanwei dialect pronunciation of "clam" is close to "pigeon" (ge). It is typically made with a skin of mixed flour and glutinous rice flour, with a rich filling often including fried shredded squid, dried shrimp, preserved sausage, lean meat, cabbage, and jicama. It can be steamed or boiled, and its texture is characterized by a chewy skin and fragrant filling.

After enjoying the dumplings and a short rest, we moved to another shop—"Sheng Ji" Braised Food. Established in 1999, the shop mainly sells various Chaoshan braised dishes, with the Lion Head Goose as its specialty. We ordered a braised platter, which included goose liver, goose heart, goose web, and goose wing.

Continuing our night market exploration, a small stall selling cute Chaoshan lion dance dolls successfully drew my attention.

The food street was lined with a dazzling array of snacks. No matter where you were from, you could always find something to your liking, such as fresh beef offal soup, the specialty drink "Cup Cup Fresh," marinated fish skin, and "Bi Yan Ji" raw marinated seafood.

Of course, oyster pancake (haolao) and shrimp pancake (xialao) were also indispensable. In front of an oyster pancake stall, a mother and daughter were carefully selecting their preferred treats.

After satisfying our hunger, we left Ermalu and headed to the hotel to rest. This brief encounter with Shanwei, filled with the lively atmosphere of its streets and alleys, allowed us to deeply feel the unique charm of this small coastal city.